Gums and Teeth

Bad breath is usually the first indication that your pet’s teeth and gums need attention. Bacteria in the mouth and the development of calculus produce foul-smelling breath in pets.

Regular inspection of the teeth is also a good idea to establish your pet’s level of dental health. Normal teeth in pets are shiny white all the way to the line of the gum. Any deposits or build up of a dark yellow or brown substance on the teeth, especially near the gum line, indicates a problem with calculus. Chewing on hard food generally cleanses the teeth of calculus, especially the tips of the teeth. However, be aware that the gum line is slightly indented and can harbor the calculus-causing bacteria for months on end without being affected by your pet’s eating.

The gums should appear a healthy pink color and there should be a clear delineation between gums and teeth.

What is Gumz-n-Teeth?

Gumz-n-Teeth is a 100% safe proprietary blend of natural and herbal ingredients in an internal formula for promoting general dental health in pets.  This formula also has a positive effect of systemic functioning as a whole.

Tumours In The Mouth

A very pungent bad breath can be an indication that your dog has a tumour in the mouth.  Look out for signs of abnormal lumps, difficulty in chewing or swallowing, bleeding, overgrowth of gums or lesions and sores.

If your dog has any signs of the above immediately get him/her to a vet for observation.  Quite often by the time these symptoms appear the disease is well established.

Keep Your Dog Healthy From the Inside

A dog’s bad breath can also come from within.  If the liver and kidneys are not functioning properly it can cause all sorts of health issues.  If your dog’s teeth and gums and mouth area are looking healthy then it’s quite likely that the problem needs to be dealt with internally.  Starting your dog on a complete de-tox programme to help the system cleanse itself is a great way to start.

Herbal and homeopathic remedies have a long history of successful use in supporting liver, gallbladder, and pancreatic health and functioning. Used as part of a holistic approach to health, natural remedies can help to provide your pet with essential nutrients, while active ingredients contained in the remedies can make all the difference in supporting the health of your pet.

What is LiverAid?

LiverAid combines herbal and homeopathic remedies in a unique formula which is both effective and safe for dogs and cats. Promoting the health of the liver, gallbladder and pancreas, LiverAid helps to support the production of insulin and bile and helps to maintain the body’s ability to eliminate toxins from the system.

TESTIMONIAL

My friend used the above products recently when her German Shepherd x had bad breath.  She was delighted with the results that Gumz-n-Teeth combined with the LiverAid had on her dog.  The bad breath was gone within a matter of days.

Posted On 02-07-2008 , 19:26

This is the official index to all our blogs relating to dog issues – from ‘Our Story’ to Behaviour and Training information to Health and Wellness and anywhere in between.

You can post a comment or ask questions through the blog pages or sign up as a friend and we can notify you when new blogs are posted

The materials on this site are distributed “as is” and appear on the site without express or implied warranties of any kind, except those required by the relevant legislation.  In particular the Company makes no warranty as to the accuracy, quality, completeness or applicability of the information provided.

The materials provided in this website are for entertainment, educational and promotional purposes only.  You may not rely on any information and opinions expressed in it for any other purpose.  Neither the Company, nor its officers, directors, employees, agents, distributors, affiliates, subsidiaries and their related companies are responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted on the Company’s website.

LINKS

BLOG

The Company is not responsible for any material posted in any Bulletin Board, chat room, or in any other forum on this website (each, a “Forum”).  The Company is merely providing access to such material in such Forum(s) as a service to you and Forums shall be used only in a non-commercial manner.  By clicking on a Forum link you are indicating your agreement to comply with these Terms of Use.

With respect to any materials posted for inclusion in such Forums by other parties, such parties are responsible for the reliability, accuracy and truthfulness of such material and such matters are beyond the control of the Company.  Similarly, the Company has no control over whether such material is of a nature that users will find inoffensive, tasteful and otherwise acceptable and expressly disclaims any responsibility for such material.  You should exercise appropriate discretion, good judgement and caution in accessing materials in any of the Forums and in taking any actions based upon material in such Forums.  Accordingly, you will bear all risk associated with any such material that you access.

By posting any materials for inclusion in such Forums, you grant to the Company, the right to reproduce, modify, adapt, publish, translate, distribute, and display such material (in whole or part) worldwide and/or to incorporate it in other works in any form, media, or technology now known or later developed.  You agree not to uplod, transmit, distribute or otherwise publish in any Forum any material that is:

(1)  libelous, defamatory, obscene, abusive, pornographic, threatening, or an invasion of privacy;
(2)  an infringement of the intellectual property rights, including, but not limited to, copyrights and trademarks, of any person or entity;
(3)  illegal in any way or advocates illegal activity;
(4)  an advertisement or solicitation of funds, goods, or services;
(5)  a message posted by a user impersonating another;
(6)  personal information such as messages which identify phone numbers, account numbers, addresses, or employer references;
(7)  chain letters of any kind;
(8)  soliciting employment as either an employee or employer including independent contractor arrangements;
(9)  soliciting the purchase or sale of businesses, products or services of any kind;
(10)  sharing legal forms of any kind;
(11)  pictures of other people’s pets wherein you do not have their express permission to display here.

The Company reserves the right to monitor and delete any postings deemed inconsistent with its policies.  The Company also reserves the right to, at our discretion, terminate the registration of any Forum user who violates any of the Terms of Use.  Although the Company will do its best to monitor materials in Forums, in no event does it assume any particular obligation to do so or liability for failing to either monitor the Forums or remove specific material.

How Do The Anal Glands Work?

Anal Gland Problems

A lot of dogs, in particular smaller dogs, have problems with their anal glands being expressed.  If they are not expressed properly the fluid inside the glands builds up and gets impacted which clogs the duct.  If bacteria enter this can then cause infection.  This can then lead to an abscess and be very uncomfortable for the dog.

There may be some indication that difficulty in expressing glands can be caused through a poor diet with too much vegetable protein or cereal fillers.  This produces softer stools and these do not put the pressure required on the anal glands in order to assist them in expressing the fluid.  Dogs fed a high quality diet will produce firmer stools which will in turn assist with the anal glands expressing properly.

AnalGlandz Benefits: To encourage natural emptying of the anal glands As an aid to manual extraction of impacted or congested anal glands To cleanse the anal area and prevent infection and abscesses For pain relief and reduction of inflammation As a disinfectant solution to prevent bacterial growth

What Are The Signs Of Anal Gland Problems?

Some of the signs which may indicate that your dog is having problems expressing his/her anal glands can be:-

• scooting where the dog drags his backside long the ground with his/her tail in the air – this can cause damage to the anus;
• the dog starts chewing around his tail and anal area;
• if the dog whimpers or cries while he/she is toileting;
• a strong nasty smell coming his back end.

How Do I Prevent And Treat Anal Gland Problems?

A close up picture of dog fur infested with fleas

Dog fleas are very small parasites which live on the blood of animals and can be found living predominantly on dogs, cats and birds.  They tend to congregrate around the tail and butt area of a dog or cat but if badly enough infested by fleas an animal will have them crawling all over the body, including face and ears.

Fleas on a dog or cat will not only live 100% of their time on the dog but can jump on and off the body and live in the environment.  If you have brick paving or surface area with cracks and grooves the fleas can live in there for up to a year.  That is why you will find if your dog or cat has fleas they will also be in the carpet and around the house or garden.

FLEA ALLERGIES AND SKIN INFECTIONS

A dog's tail infested by fleas

When the fleas suck out the blood from the dog or cat it leaves saliva on the skin.  This saliva is what some dogs are allergic to and can cause severe itching and great distress.   This is quite often the cause of your dog licking and biting himself constantly.  The constant licking and biting results in dermatitis on the skin and sometimes hotspots if not treated immediately.  Sometimes it only takes one or two fleas on a dog or cat to cause a skin irritation and allergy.

Fleas can also transmit tapeworms so if you dog does have an infestation of fleas then you need to worm as well as treat the dog for fleas.

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DOG OR CAT HAS FLEAS AND ALLERGY DERMATITIS

You will need to look through your dog’s coat thoroughly to see firstly if there are:-

• Black specs of flea dirt can be seen throughout the coat and you can see fleas running around in the fur;
• A flea infestation will cause extreme itchiness causing constant biting and scratching, especially around the tail area;
• Licking and biting in specific areas;
• Red and raw inflamed skin and skin infections or sores;
• Hotspots.

If any of the above are present then there is a good chance that your dog will have fleas.  Sometimes your dog might only have one or two fleas.  It is quite hard to determine if there is only a couple but for some dogs one flea is enough to cause an allergic reaction with biting and scratching.

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO TREAT MY ENVIRONMENT FOR FLEAS?

If you do discover your dog has a flea infestation then you will need to treat him/her with a good quality flea  treatment.  These are the steps you should take to rid the environment of fleas:-

• The first step should be to give the dog a good bath using a flea shampoo;

• If you have more than one pet then all pets in the household will need to be treated.

• Treat any areas around the garden or yard where cracks and pet fur can build up over time.  The best solution for pavement areas is a few drops of Eucalyptus oil in a bucket of warm water and throw over the brick paving area.  A specifically designed flea treatment spray for outdoor areas will work just as well.  If the problem is very bad then you may need a pest control treatment for your house and garden.

• Flea bomb the house if necessary.

• Have a good quality flea treatment available to put on the dog after he/she has had a bath and coat is dry.  The flea treatments which kill the breeding cycle of the flea are best.

THE BEST WAY TO TREAT YOUR DOG FOR FLEAS

Flea treatments all have some sort of chemicals in them which are strong enough to kill fleas but not harm the dog.  Personally, I would only use these products if my dog has fleas and once the fleas have been eradicated then I would stop giving the flea treatment.  You don’t know what chemicals are in these products and the damage they can cause from absorption into the animal’s body over a long period of time.

Always follow the instructions on the packet and beware that some of these flea treatments are not suitable for animals under a certain age.

There are a few different types of flea treatments to choose from.  Here we list what they are and their effectiveness.   These include chemical and natural treatments.

Flea Collars	Flea Sprays and Powders	Spot-On Flea Treatments	Home and Garden	Natural Flea Remedies

HOW TO TREAT FLEA ALLERGIES AND SKIN INFECTIONS

As dogs skin can be come extremely irritated by the biting and scratching of fleas depending on the severity of the flea infestation, not only is it important to treat and get rid of the fleas completely but it is important for the dog’s skin and coat to be treated to aid the healing from the infection and irritation.

If your dog is suffering from the effects of flea infestation then check out PetAlive FleaDerm.   You can get more information on FleaDerm for Flea Bite Dermatitis here.  This product has 100% natural ingredients containing German Chamomile, Cleavers, Marigold, Witchhazel and Graphites.   Check out the special – Buy 2, Get 1 FREE offer here.    Apply the cream daily until the skin has healed.

If your dog needs clipping and you require dog grooming clippers then you will also need clipper blades.  There are different brands of blades with different numbers which cut to different lengths of coat and it may be worthwhile checking that the blade you are purchasing are compatible with the brand of clipper you have.  For clipper blades to cut well they need to be well maintained and kept sharp.  You will notice when blades go blunt as they simply will not cut through the coat.   We will give you a little more information on the various types of clipper blades that are available.

Fine Tooth vs Skip Tooth Blades

Fine tooth blades give a finer finished look to the coat.  These are best used on a fine and soft coat, for example any of the small fluffy breeds.  The final clip will be very even looking and very smooth.  Fine tooth blades are distinguished by the letter ‘F’ after the number, for example 4F, 7F, 3F.  These blades will work beautifully for dogs whose coats are reguarly clipped and/or brushed however they will not work on a dog who is matted or very thick undercoat near the skin.  This is because the coat is just too thick for the blade to cut through.

A skip tooth blade leaves the dog’s coat with a more layered look but it still looks neat and tidy when finished.  It will probably be necessary to use a short skiptooth blade on a dog who is matted or very thick close to the skin.

Clipper Brands

The most popular and recommended brands for clipper blades are:  Andis; Oster; Shear Magic; Wahl.  The link for each brand will take you through to their direct website for further information however if you are looking for a place to purchase blades online then we recommend that you purchase them from the following reputable companies:-

Vet Products Direct Australia

Vet Products Direct UK

Vet Products Direct USA/Canada

Pet Smart

Amazon

What Size Blade for What Length of Cut

Blades come in a variety of numbers which indicate the length of the cut.  Clipper blades are generally labelled with  a hash symbol before a number, for example Blade # 7, or Blade #4F or they may have variations of that.   Each number indicates a different length of cut.  The lower the number the longer the cut and the higher the number the closer the cut to the skin.  For example, a Blade # 3 will leave approximately 13mm of length on the coat while Blade # 10 will leave approximately 2mm of coat.  The very high numbers such as Blade # 40 or # 50 would only be used by veterinarians for surgical purposes.

Generally for pet dog clipping you are better off by using middle of the range that gives a medium cut.  It is not necessary to have more than a couple of blades, unless you decide that you either want to clip your dog to show standards which requires different lengths of coat, eg a poodle or schnauzer, or perhaps you may prefer to have a shorter blade which will keep your dog short during the hot summer months and a longer blade for a longer clip during the cold winter months.  You might decide to have a Blade # 10 for clipping around the anal area to keep it clear and clean and also underneath the hind leg area which sometimes can get knotted.

Below is a list of the different clipper blade numbers and lengths of cuts.  Each brand of clipper blade may vary slightly in length but they all are pretty much the same.

Blade #3 or #3F …………. Cuts and leaves 1/2″ or 13mm length of coat on the dog
Blade #4 or # 4F…………. Cuts and leaves approximately 3/8″ or 9.5mm length of coat
Blade #5 or #5F …………..Cuts and leaves approximately 1/4″ or 6mm length of coat
Blade #5/8 Toe Blade ……Is specifically for clipping between the toes and feet
Blade #7 or #7F ………….Cuts and leaves approximately 1/8″ or 3.2mm length of coat
Blade #7/8 Toe Blade …..Is specifically for clipping between toes and feet
Blade #8 1/2 ……………….Cuts and leaves 7/64″ or 2.8mm length of coat
Blade #9 …………………….Cuts and leaves approximately 5/64″ or 2mm length of coat
Blade #10 …………………..Cuts and leaves 1/16″ or 2mm length of coat
Blade #15 ……………………Cuts and leaves 1.2mm length of coat
Blade #30 …………………..Cuts and leaves 0.5mm length of coat
Blade #40 & #50 ………….Are specifically for short surgical cuts

Different brands may have slightly different blade numbers however generally the lengths will be pretty much standard as the guide above.

Recommended blade numbers for different lengths of cut for pet clipping:

Summer: Blade number to use over the body  -  # 7;  blade number for clipping around the anal area and underneath the dog’s hind leg area -  #10.

Winter: Blade number to use over the body  -  # 4 or #5;  blade number for clipping around the anal area and underneath the dog’s hind leg area  -  # 10.

If you use any shorter or longer over the dog’s body you may find the cut is too close to the skin and doesn’t look that nice or it is too long and it means you have to clip the dog more often to keep it tidy.

If you are doing specific breed clipping then you will need to follow the recommendations for that particular breed and it may be necessary to purchase more dog grooming equipment.

How to Put the Blades on the Dog Grooming Clippers

It is quite easy to put the blades onto the clippers.  Slide the blade onto the metal holder of the clipper.  Make sure it is secure.  Then line up the plastic clasp on the clipper so that it slots into the corresponding gap of the top blade.  Then snap the blade and the clipper together so that it is secured firmly together.  You are now ready to start clipping.

Clipper blade

Clippers with no blade

Fitting the blade onto the clipper

Clippers and blade ready to do the job

Never have your clipper motor running while you are putting a blade on or taking it off.  Always make sure your clippers are switched off.  Leaving the clippers running and putting the blades on or off will ruin the motor in your clippers.  The blade should just slot on the end of the clip area and then snap into place.  You will need to line up the space on the blade with the hook on the clippers so it snaps into place properly.  If you have trouble you may just need to adjust the top slide of the blade until it lines up.

Before grooming your dog make sure that the dog grooming clippers are working properly and that the blades are sharp.  If the blades are blunt you will notice that they don’t cut through the fur.  This is when they will need to be sharpened.

How to Clean Dog Grooming Blades

It is important to regularly maintain the clipper blades and keep them clean.  If they are not cleaned after each clip the dirt and fur remains in them and if they are used again in that condition this will cause them to go blunt quicker.  Clean blades will require less sharpening and the more sharpening the less life-span they have.

Clipper Blade Maintenance by Oster provides you with all your blade cleaning and maintenance requirements and using these products will enhance the life of your grooming blades and clippers.  The pack includes Blade Wash, Kool Lube for cooling blades down and Lubricating Oil.

Blade cleaner and oil can be purchased through our above recommended online retailers.

Not only do blades need regular cleaning, it is also important to remember that the metal can tend to heat up very quickly, especially in hot weather.  If the blade gets too hot then spray the blade with coolant – this will help to cool it down before you hurt your dog.  Or, alternatively, give the clippers a rest and work on another part of the dog’s body, ie trimming the dog’s nails; or even change blades if you have a spare blade of the same length.

Blade cleaning solution is best utilised by tipping a little solution into a small container.  Run the clippers with the blade in place and dip the blade into the solution just enough to cover the blade area while they are running.  This will get rid of any hair or dirt stuck between the two plates of metal.  Wipe them down with a rag and then squirt a small amount of oil on both end edges where the two blades move against each other.  By keeping the blades free of dirt and well oiled they won’t blunt so quickly.  When the blades do finally go blunt you will need to get them sharpened by a professional sharpener who specialises in dog clippers, blades and scissors.

Blade Sharpening

Depending upon how often you use your dog grooming clippers and blades and how often they are cleaned will determine how many clips you get before they need to be sharpened.  Sharpening must be done by a professional – it is a specialised service and like any service you can get good and bad service.  If you are not sure where to find someone who will sharpen blades you might want to ask your local dog groomer where they get their equipment serviced and sharpened or any pet shop who sells clipping equipment if they know of a reputable service.

Need information on other dog grooming supplies?  Refer to our related pages on:

Dog Grooming Clippers

Dog Grooming Rakes and Shedding Tools

Dog Grooming Brushes

Dog Grooming Combs

Dog Grooming Scissors

Dog Nail Clippers

Top of Page

Dog grooming brushes come in all shapes and sizes available for any breed or size of dog and any type of coat.  Brushing your dog regularly stimulates the natural oils in the skin and coat as well as helping the circulation.  An appropriate brush of some sort is an essential part of your equipment as all dogs regardless of whether they have short or long coats require grooming.  Some of these brushes are ergonomically designed for the comfort of your hand.

Bristle Brushes

The best brushes for grooming short-haired dogs with no thick layer of undercoat are the soft bristle brushes.  The bristles get any loose fur or dirt off the body and at the same time stimulating the skin and circulation.  You might prefer a single-sided brush (as in the photo) or a double-sided brush with bristles on one side and pins on the other.  These double-sided good quality seasoned wood dog grooming brushes have a mahogany laquer finish and are more beneficial as it doesn’t hurt to use both sides on a short-haired dog.  Or you might prefer to use a grooming glove.  A good range of brushes, gloves and other grooming tools can be found here at GJW Titmuss.

Ionizing Pet Brush

As adorable as your pet can be, their hair can often get messed up and unpleasant body odors can occur. But a few strokes of the NeoTec XJ-250 Ionic Pet Cleaning Brush will tidy your pet’s fur. Ionized air and activated oxygen thoroughly and gently cleans their hair, improving its growth and eliminating bad odor, resulting in a cleaner and fresher smell. Extra broad brush surface makes hair brushing easy, and the removable brush can be easily cleaned. The NeoTec XJ-250 Ionic Pet Cleaning Brush is, without a doubt, the most ideal way of cleaning pets, as it significantly reduces the burden of bathing them from time to time. This makes pets happier as the ionic pet cleaning brush helps put their bathing trauma to an end.

Slicker Brushes

Some dogs have short coats however they have a layer of undercoat and shed fur constantly throughout the year.  Labrador Retrievers can be an example of this where they seem to shed a lot of coat even though it is short.  If you have a dog with this type of coat then the best grooming brush is a soft pinned slicker brush which gets the undercoat out more effectively.  The soft pin brushes are better for grooming a dog with the shorter coat and the medium pin brushes are a better choice for grooming a dog with a longer and thicker coat.

You may have a breed of dog which has a longer coat but there is not a lot of undercoat.  It may be best to have a look before purchasing the grooming brush to see which is suitable, you would then need to choose whether the soft pin or medium pin slicker brush would be the best choice.  For this type of coat you will need something that can keep on top of the fur matting up (see our grooming tips for matted dogs) and normal pin grooming brushes or bristle brushes are not really be suitable for this type of dog coat.

If your dog is large and has very thick coat such as the Alaskan Malamute or Siberian Husky then the best type of dog grooming brush would be the medium pin slicker brush in a large size plus a shedding blade or rake of some sort (see our page on combs and rakes).  This would get right into the coat and draw the clumps of undercoat out.  The rakes are particularly good for when the dog sheds (or blows) it’s coat a couple of times a year

When handling some of these dog grooming brushes you need to be careful not to hurt the dog.  In particular, the slicker brushes should be used fairly gently against the dog’s skin, although you may need to press harder on the very thick coated dogs.  You will find that some dogs, whether they are short or long coated, will shed coat all year round and therefore a dog grooming brush will need to be an essential item so he/she can be brushed regularly.

What Do We Prefer To Use?

Gripsoft is our prefered brand.  They are ergonomically designed for the comfort of your hand while you are brushing your dog.  They also feature a range of rakes and combs and nail clippers.  See the range at Vet Products Direct.

Dog grooming combs and rakes come in all sorts of varieties depending, once again, on the type of dog you own.  You can purchase course grooming combs or medium or fine grooming combs as well as shedding combs, flea combs and combs with rotating teeth.

Regular Dog Grooming Combs

If you have a small fluffy dog, for example a Shihtzu or a Shihtzu cross, then a comb can be a handy grooming tool to have.  These little dogs have high maintenance coats and dog grooming is essential.  They require regular brushing and combing.  The easier way to maintain their coat is to clip it off regularly.   By running the comb through the dog’s coat ou will be able to tell whether the coat is starting to matt up as the teeth will get caught up in the knots.  Find the most suitable comb for your dog by determining the size of the dog and thickness of coat.  Dog Grooming at PetSmart.com has a great range suitable for all your needs.

De-matting Combs

These particular types of combs are a great tool for the matted dog.  There are a couple of different styles of dematting combs so you have a choice of what is most comfortable for you to use.  These combs break up any parts of fur which might have  matted up or they are great for just thinning out the undercoat and excess hair.  Here are the two types and their differences.

Top Paw(tm) Dematting Rake The dematting rake removes matted and tangled hair in long-haired dogs without loss of hair length. Use to remove uncomfortable hair mats from behind your dog’s ears, between his back legs, beneath his front legs, under his collar, and more. Non-slip, comfortable handle helps keep your muscles more relaxed for less fatigue and greater control. Tip: Coat conditioners should be used to aid in removing mats. To use: First, brush the coat to loosen mats. Split the mat into sections and place the comb under the mat with the dull side against your pet’s skin. Place your fingers between the comb and the skin to prevent pulling of the skin. Slowly move the comb through the mat with a saw like action to cut through the mat. Comb through the coat to collect all loose and dead hair. It is recommended to demat before bathing as water will tighten the mat.

Dematting Comb Soft, non-slip grip with Fingerprint softspots for control. 9 blades for splitting and removing matts.   How Does This Benefit Me? When other tools can’t break free mats, choose this dematting comb. It works wonders on heavily matted dog and cat hair. The dematting comb breaks the mat into more manageable sections so that you are able to comb through them. This way your beautiful pet won’t loose much of its coat. MiracleCorp combines the secure feel of a soft, non-slip grip with nine fuctional stainless steel blades.

 

Flea Combs

Another useful comb if your dog has fleas is a flea comb and this can make de-fleaing your dog a lot easier.  The teeth on these combs are very close together and as you comb through the coat the fleas get caught up and pulled to the surface of the dog.  If your dog does have fleas then this tool can be used in conjunction with the application of a flea treatment as well as bathing your dog in a flea shampoo – see our section on Fleas.

There is such a wide range of inexpensive dog grooming combs available and you just need to decide which type of comb is suitable for your dog’s needs.