PetAlive Skin and Coat Tonic for Healthy Skin and a Glossy Coat in Pets
Skin & Coat Tonic contains a combination of specially selected herbs, nutrients and biochemic tissue salts known for their tonic and supportive function on the skin and coat. Regular use of Skin & Coat Tonic will quickly help to promote shine and health, leaving your pet looking and feeling in peak condition.

Allergies

Allergies are more indicative of skin problems rather than coat problems and can be caused through many different factors, ie food, grasses, insects or chemicals and shampoos.  If your dog shows signs of red, itchy skin you can only determine what the allergy is caused by through extensive veterinary testing which is expensive or trial and error with feeding.  If you have no idea what is causing the skin condition then it is best to seek veterinary advice.

Internal Health

An imbalance internally can reveal itself by poor coat and skin condition.  One of the causes can be through an imbalanced immune system and canine hypothyroidism.  Thyroid disease is becoming more prevalent in dogs and can cause all sorts of ill health both physically and behaviourally.

Specifically, thyroid disease can affect the skin and coat in the following ways:-

• Dry, scaly skin and dandruff;
• Course, dull coat;
• “rat tail” or “puppy coat”
• Hyperpigmentation
• Pyoderma or skin infections
• Chronic offensive skin odor
• Bilaterally symmetrical hair loss
• seborrhea with greasy skin
• seborrhea with dry skin
• myxedema

If your dog shows any signs of ongoing skin and coat problems and you can’t see that they are related to external causes the first suggestion would be to get a complete baseline thyroid profile done on the dog.  This is done by taking your dog to the vet for a blood sample and then getting that sent off to a laboratory for a complete analysis.  For more information refer to www.hemopet.org.

Treating the immune system can also be helpful in treating these conditions.  We recommend PetAlive Immunity & Liver Support Formula to Boost Immune Functioning and Improve Liver Health in Pets.

Other Steps To Take

• Bathing – do not bath your dog too often.  One bath a month should be more than adequate.  If your dog does have skin and coat problems bathing too much in shampoo can strip the skin and coat of its natural oils.
• Shampoo – oatmeal and aloe vera shampoo can be very soothing to the skin and coat.  Check what ingredients are in your shampoo and look at changing to a more natural one.
• Brushing – regularly brush your dog to stimulate the natural oil secretion from the cells.
• Exercise – regular exercise can go a long way towards the whole health and wellbeing through stimulating blood and oxygen flow.

Sometimes fleas.can be the cause of a dog’s coat getting matted.  If the dog has an allergy and licks the area where he has been bitten the fur will get tangled up and matted.

Depending how badly matted the dog is then you will need to either cut the area with scissors or get yourself a de-matting comb and work the knots out if they are not too bad.  If the dog is matted all over, as in the picture then the only option is to shave the dog very short .  You may find once matting has been taken off, particularly around the eye area, that the skin is red raw underneath.  This is the damage done by the fur pulling on the skin.  This may need some cream or solution to help the area to heal quickly.

If your dog is matted shave the mats off first before giving the dog a bath.  If you wash a matted dog it only makes the matting worse.

If your dog is matted then you will require a dematting or shedding tool.  Purchase them here:

WORST AREAS ON A DOG FOR MATTING

Any dog with long coats have a tendency for matting up and certain areas need to be given particular attention.  The areas most prone to matting are:-

• Under the front shoulders – here the fur mats up as the dog moves it’s legs and needs to be kept brushed regularly.  If the area gets matted up then a de-matting comb can be used if it is not too bad, otherwise the matts will need to be either shaved or cut out with the scissors.  Care must be taken not to cut or hurt the dog.

• Around the ears – particularly on small dogs if brushing is not a regular habit.  The little designer dogs have undercoat which, if not brushed out reguarly, will accumulate and mat up.

• Between the paws – sometimes the longer fur between the back and front pads clumps up and becomes matted.  The easiest way to remove this is cutting it out with the scissors.  Just be careful not to cut the dog.

• Under the belly – is also an area to watch out for.  The fur on the inside of the hind legs and around the tummy area is very prone to matting if not kept well brushed.  Sometimes little matts start to appear.  These are best cut out with the scissors or clipping them off with a short blade.

• Tail – if long coated tails are not regularly brushed they will quickly matt up.  Some dogs have undercoat which does not get groomed out and on the surface it appears the dog is not matted however this coat matts up very close to the skin and is then difficult to cut off, even with scissors.  In this case it is best to just shave the whole tail very short and start again.
  

  A matted dog needs to be clipped off very short

HOW TO TELL IF MY DOG IS MATTED

The best way to tell if your dog is matted close to the skin from undercoat is by running a comb through the coat.  If the comb easily goes through then you know your dog does not have any matts.  If the comb gets stuck and you are not able to get it through then you know the coat is matted.

For coat which is matted very close to the skin then the best remedy is a full body clip.

Using the clippers and working to a pattern as above

• To continue clipping down the front leg – gently but firmly pick up the dog’s leg and hold it straight out in front. This is where your dog might get wriggly and more difficult.  Don’t bend the leg into an unnatural position as you can easily do the dog some damage.  Be careful of the very thin parts of skin – if  the clippers are pressed too hard on these parts it is possible the skin will be cut.  You will need to raise the leg to the side a little to get the clippers right into the shoulder area.  This is the area which tends to mat up first so if you find it too difficult with the clippers then you might prefer to cut the fur here with the scissors.  Run the clippers right down the legs and over the paw making sure you manoevre all around the leg.  Be careful of the dew claw (side nail) you don’t want the blade to cut into that.
  
  

• Continue to run the clippers over the dog’s back and then down the side of the body.  You will need to lift the front leg upin order to manoevre the clippers from the chest area to underneath the belly.

• Next is the hind leg area.  It will be reasonably easy to clip the outside of the hind leg.but then you will need to move the leg in order to get to the inside.  You can turn the dog around and then lift the other hind leg so as you can get the clippers in to the inside of the hind leg you are working on. Once again, be gentle as you hold the leg and don’t manoevre into an awkward position.

• Once the hind leg is done clip run the clippers from the body and about an inch down the tail all around.  You might prefer to work on the other hind leg in the same way before you change blades to clip around the anal area and underneath the tummy area.

If your dog has a longer coat and fur which protrudes from between the pads under the feet then it is best to trim this back with a pair of straight-edged scissors (refer to our page on Dog Grooming Scissors). There are several benefits for doing this:-

• By giving the paws a trim the dog will not pick up so much dirt and sand and walk it through the house if he/she is an inside dog;
• As well as sand and dirt, far more serious objects can get caught up in the extra long fur – such as grass seeds and burrs, bits of glass, or anything else which may cause irritation or enter the dog’s skin;
• If you live in cold climates it prevents the dog from picking up snow and sludge which can harden quite quickly and do
• It just makes the dog’s paws look a lot neater and tidier.

PROTECTING THE PAWS FROM WINTER SNOW AND TOXIC CHEMICALS

Some dogs love to romp and play in the snow. Wet, melting snow or slush can cling to the fur underneath the dogs paws. Accompany this with gravel, dirt or rock salt this can make for sore paws for the dog if not removed.

Rock salt and de-icers which are used for clearing the ground of ice and snow contain potentially harmful chemicals which are toxic if ingested. If your dog has ice and snow stuck to the paws or even if there is no ice, snow or gravel stuck to the paws still don’t allow the dog to lick until after they are washedin warm water and thoroughly cleaned. This means if the dog licks his/her paws later no toxic chemicals will be ingested into the body.

By giving the dog’s paws a trim you are protecting him/her from snow/ice which will stick.
PROTECT YOUR DOG’S FEET WITH SPECIAL DOG BOOTS
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Paw Tectors Dog Paw Protection

HOW DO I TRIM THE FUR AROUND MY DOG’S PAWS?

Trimming a dog’s paws

A dog or puppy who has been trained to stay calm while his paws are being touched or nails clipped will be a lot easier than a dog who is fidgety. It is so much easier to train a pup to put up with someone handling his paws from a young age than it is to try to calm an older dog who doesn’t like his paws being touched. An older dog will take more patience and time to gradually get him accustomed to this procedure.

You will need a pair of sharp straight-edged scissors. It is easier to have the dog lying down. If you are having trouble keeping him/her still give him a bone or a chew toy filled with treats.

Gently bend the dog’s paw back so you can get to the underneath. With the scissors carefully trim the fur on the dog’s paws back to being level with the pads. Dogs can sometimes get matted in between the main back pad and the front ones. This forms the shape of a ‘v’. If you can trim this portion of fur as close to the skin as possible without cutting the dog. It is best to keep this area free from fur to prevent matting and also to minimise any other grass seeds, dirt or any other matter which could be potentially do some damage to your dog. Also trim neatly around the edge of the paws to look neat and tidy.

While you have the dog still to trim his/her paws you might want to trim the nails also.

Some dogs do not allow anyone other than their owners to touch their paws. By learning how to trim your dog’s paws you are going to be able to keep him looking neat and also preventing any possible damage to him through grass seeds, etc.

W

HY SHOULD I TRIM THE FUR UNDERNEATH MY DOG’S PAWS?

If your dog has a longer coat and fur which protrudes from between the pads under the feet then it is best to trim this back with a pair of straight-edged scissors (refer to our page on Dog Grooming Scissors). There are several benefits for doing this:-

• By giving the paws a trim the dog will not pick up so much dirt and sand and walk it through the house if he/she is an inside dog;
• As well as sand and dirt, far more serious objects can get caught up in the extra long fur – such as grass seeds and burrs, bits of glass, or anything else which may cause irritation or enter the dog’s skin;
• If you live in cold climates it prevents the dog from picking up snow and sludge which can harden quite quickly and do
  
• It just makes the dog’s paws look a lot neater and tidier.

PROTECTING THE PAWS FROM WINTER SNOW AND TOXIC CHEMICALS

Some dogs love to romp and play in the snow. Wet, melting snow or slush can cling to the fur underneath the dogs paws. Accompany this with gravel, dirt or rock salt this can make for sore paws for the dog if not removed.

Rock salt and de-icers which are used for clearing the ground of ice and snow contain potentially harmful chemicals which are toxic if ingested. If your dog has ice and snow stuck to the paws or even if there is no ice, snow or gravel stuck to the paws still don’t allow the dog to lick until after they are washedin warm water and thoroughly cleaned. This means if the dog licks his/her paws later no toxic chemicals will be ingested into the body.

By giving the dog’s paws a trim you are protecting him/her from snow/ice which will stick.

PROTECT YOUR DOG’S FEET WITH SPECIAL DOG BOOTS

Soft Claws Nail Caps for Dogs

Soft Claws Nail Caps are the solution to your dog’s scratching problems. These clear soft plastic caps can be applied to front paws only, to minimize scratching damage to human skin and surfaces, or to all four paws to prevent hind claws from aggravating dog’s skin that is already irritated or inflamed. Soft Claws do not interfere with any of your dog’s normal activities. Includes complete instructions for proper nail trimming and application. Each pack contains 40 Nail Caps and 2 tubes of adhesive. XS is for dogs 1-5 lbs S is for dogs 1-10 lbs M is for dogs 10-15 lbs L is for dogs 15-20 lbs XL is for dogs 20-40 lbs XXL is for dogs 40-70 lbs Jumbo is for dogs 70 lbs and up.

Where Can These Grass Seeds Lodge?

The arrow-like grass seeds can lodge virtually anywhere on your dog’s body.  We need to check the dog all over regularly.  Some of the signs are:-

Ears -  If you notice your dog shaking his head, scratching his ear or holding his head to one side and there is no sign of an real ear infection then a grass seed could be the cause.  If a grass seed moves into the ear canal it can cause a range of problems if not treated early.  See your veterinarian urgently.

Nose – Sneezing, a dog pawing at its nose and some nasal discharge can be a sign of a grass seed caught up in the nasal passage.

Eyes -  If your dog shows redness and inflammation in the eye area and a discharge appears then get your vet to check whether a grass seed is lodged in that area.  If left untreated this can cause blindness in the dog.

Mouth -  If the dog inhales a grass seed it can then travel into the throat and internally further into the stomach area.  Sometimes it may lodge on the way down causing abscesses or damage to the internal organs or even the spinal area.  Your dog could show symptoms of illness and attempting to vomit, refusal to eat, coughing, fever or breathing difficulties.

Skin -  Grass seeds will first lodge in the dog’s coat.  If these are not located and removed early on they will start to enter the skin with their spikey fibres.  The dog will start to scratch and bite in the area affected.  The grass seed will keep penetrating and eventually work its way right inside into the body.  Once inside the body the seed then gradually travels along causing swelling and infection or abscesses along the way.  If the seed enters via the paw then it will start to travel up the leg.  If it enters via the chest then the lungs and breathing could be affected.

How Do I Know If My Dog Has a Grass Seed In His Paw Or Other Parts of His Body?

The most likely place for your dog to get a grass seed is in his paw, although they can enter from anywhere on the dog’s body.  It will generally not difficult to tell if your dog does have a grass seed in his paw.  Generally they will lick around the entry site which will look swollen and red and with the skin exposed.  Depending upon how deep the seed has gone into the paw you will notice a swelling around the area if it is near the surface.  You will also see a hole where the seed has entered.  If the seed has already travelled a little deeper into the leg then you may not notice anything else other than redness and swelling at the entry point.  If you notice redness, swelling and a hole then you can pretty much bet that it is a grass seed that has gone in.  The best thing to do is to rush your dog straight to the vet for them to examine the paw.  The longer you leave it the further the seed can travel and the more difficult it will be to find.

Removing a grass seed would only be attempted if you can still see the grass seed protruding from the entry point.  If it is not too deeply entered it is possible to pull it  out with your fingers otherwise if it has gone a little further in you may be able to pull it out using a pair of tweezers.  Be careful that you don’t leave any bits of the grass inside.  If you do manage to pull one out before it has gone too far in the wound should heal fairly quickly.  If you have pulled the seed out but it is not healing then there may be some still left in there.  You would need to get the dog to the vet for this also.

A grass seed that lodges in any other part of the dog’s body whether it be the face, neck, throat, ears, tail or body will show the same symptoms.  There will be redness and swelling and a hole which will look infected.  If it lodges into these other parts you may not see any other evidence and it is urgent that you get your dog to the vet immediately.  This is because you won’t know how far it has travelled and it will keep travelling causing infection along the way.

If your dog does need surgery to remove the seed additional immune system health supplements will enhance and boost the recovery process.  Check out the products at the Only Natural Dog Store specifically designed to help the dog’s recovery pre and post surgery.

What Do I Need To Do To Prevent This?

There are several preventative measures for the detection of grass seeds.

• Avoid walking your dog in long grassy areas unless absolutely necessary.  Walk your dog on short green grass or on pavement.
• After each walk check your dog’s coat and especially in between the pads on the paws for any bits of debris which might do some damage.  Also check inside the ears and mouth.
• Brush your dog’s coat regularly.  This will clear your dog of any seeds or burrs which might catch up in the coat.  This will also prevent matting.
• If your dog’s coat is long around the paws trim them back with the scissors to reduce the chance of picking up seeds or prickles.  Also trim around the groin area and under the armpits as well as around the ears.
• Don’t allow your dog to chew grasses which have the seed heads on them.

Related Topics:

Dog grooming brushes

Matted dog

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